When Arlette talks about stratum corneum and ceramides, she warns us: I'm a scientist, I don't know how to communicate!
We weren't looking for a communicator, we were looking for someone who could decipher the real from the fake and get us back on track.
o Your career in a few words
I studied pharmacy. Then, I was a lecturer at university while working as an expert for pharmaceutical laboratories. My field is ceramides and lipids in general. My field of analysis is the skin barrier. I work at the interface between cosmetics and medicine.
o Why is the skin one of our most important organs?
It acts as a barrier against infections and the environment. It's our breastplate. It's also key to sociability, well-being and self-esteem.
o You often tell us that healthy skin is above all a healthy skin barrier. What happens when it's damaged?
When our skin is dry or damaged, it plays less of a barrier role. As a result, ingredients, both good and not-so-good, penetrate to the dermis, into the bloodstream. For example, when we expose ourselves to the sun, our stratum corneum is destructured and everything penetrates more, as if the tissue were becoming wider. Alcohol in a formula is also a promoter of ingredient absorption. You can see why it's so important to be careful about the ingredients we put on our skin!
o A study that stood out for you?
I remember a study comparing the black population living in France and Cameroon. A different acid was found in their skin (sapienic acid). The environment in which we live and the food we eat can modify the properties of our skin and therefore the way it ages.
o Pourquoi avoir accepté de faire partie du board Clean Beauty de Seasonly?
The personalities of the people I met. Their willingness to connect people from different backgrounds, like me. Exchanging expertise, nurturing each other.
o Your definition of Clean Beauty
It's not just a question of the right ingredients, but also of an ethical, reasoned approach. Everyone can have a skin dream. The dream is necessary. But then there has to be science behind it..
o If skin could speak to us, what would it say?
"I'm not just your enemy, I'm not just a constraint. You can have fun with me"
o A tip for women Be very regular in your gestures. Just like when you're gardening. The important thing is the ritual. Think about your diet. And don't always use the same formula!
o Tomorrow's cosmetics will be more ...?
I used to be criticized for working on cosmetics, which weren't considered scientific enough. Now cosmetics are more respected in research.
o What would it be like to live better?
I think we already live well in France compared to other countries, don't you? Living better would mean respecting each other more. Think collectively.
o Someone, near or far, in the light or shade, in your field or not, who inspires you?
Elsa Jungman*, qui a été mon étudiante. En plus d'être très douée, elle a une personnalité, et est portée par de vrais valeurs [c'est grâce a Elsa que l'équipe Seasonly a rencontré Arlette].
o The final "WORD"?
ALTERNITY. Meeting different people. I'm a people person. I'm not self-sufficient.
*founder of the Franco-American start-up Elsi Beauty - Article summary from the Skin School with Elsa Jungman read in the 'News' tab.
