As we know, age spots, hyperpigmentation or marks left by inflammation (such as those caused by burns or acne breakouts) are often the most difficult to treat. Even if the topical application of certain active ingredients does not replace certain medical techniques, some active ingredients have promising results.
You may have heard of tranexamic acid? This active ingredient stands out for its effectiveness against pigment spots. But how do you properly integrate it into your skincare routine? We explain everything to help you see things more clearly.
Tranexamic acid: what is this active ingredient?
Discovered in the 1950s, tranexamic acid is a substance related to the amino acid lysine; it is a synthetic analogue of lysine, one of the essential amino acids in our body.
You may not know this, but tranexamic acid has been administered orally for many years: it is a drug with coagulant properties that helps limit excessive blood loss caused by major trauma, surgery, postpartum bleeding and heavy menstruation. But what about its use in cosmetics? In fact, at the time, Japanese researchers (Shosuke and Utako Okamoto) - the ones who invented this active ingredient - realized that one of the side effects of administering this drug was depigmentation. This is how the active ingredient began to be used in the aesthetics field.
It was only in 2009 that tranexamic acid was authorized and introduced into beauty products by the Commission of Cosmetology. Thanks to its depigmenting properties, this acid is able to visibly reduce several types of hyperpigmentation of the skin, such as melasma, post-acne marks, and sun spots, while lightening the complexion and inhibiting the production of melanin. Research has even suggested that the effectiveness of tranexamic acid could rival that of hydroquinone. In addition, it is appreciated for its anti-inflammatory properties and is often very well tolerated by sensitive skin.
How does it work?
Tranexamic acid works by inhibiting the release of inflammatory mediators that are responsible for melanogenesis, the process of melanin formation in the skin. A 2019 study showed that it is as effective as hydroquinone in reducing melasma, but without the side effects associated with the latter (which has been banned in cosmetic products in Europe since 2001). When it comes to post-acne marks, a 2022 study found that tranexamic acid is effective in reducing their appearance, while posing little risk of side effects. Additionally, its depigmenting action helps even out skin tone by limiting the formation of new spots.
When to use tranexamic acid treatment?
Tranexamic acid is particularly effective in treating skin with spots. It is recommended in the following cases:
- Pregnancy mask / melasma : Brown spots caused by hormonal imbalances during pregnancy or after excessive exposure,
- Lentigo or sun spots : The result of excessive and repeated sun exposure.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation : Dark spots that appear after inflammation, such as injuries, burns, blemishes, or acne breakouts.
How to integrate tranexamic acid into your beauty routine?
Tranexamic acid is generally mild and well tolerated, and can be used twice a day, morning and evening, without the risk of photosensitization. For sensitive or already irritated skin, start with daily application. If the skin tolerates the product well, you can then increase to two applications per day. If irritation or discomfort occurs, stop using it immediately. You can apply the tranexamic acid treatment locally to the spots to be treated, whether on the face or body, or on the entire face.
Our recommendation
For a natural alternative to injections, we recommend TensioLift Day Cream . Its formula contains tranexamic acid, an ultra-technical active ingredient effective against pigment spots and hyperpigmentation. It is particularly effective in reducing melasma and sun spots.
Enriched with Gatuline® Renew, this cream stimulates cell regeneration, prevents dehydration and smoothes the skin. Its enveloping texture, which uses an amino acid derivative to mimic the effect of silicones, blurs pores and smooths skin irregularities.
In an effort to be eco-responsible, TensioLift Day Cream is available in a refillable format: once the product is finished, simply replace the refill.
