We hear more and more about the skin barrier or the hydrolipidic film. But what is it ? Unlike your pores or a pimple for example, the skin barrier is invisible. And yet, it protects you every day from numerous external attacks. So how can we help it function better and protect it? How to repair a damaged skin barrier? We tell you everything.
What is the skin barrier?
Imagine your skin like a house or an apartment. They each have sturdy load-bearing walls and openings like windows or doors. The skin barrier is a bit like the walls of this apartment. The openings are alternately pores where sebaceous follicles grow or sweat pores housing aquaporins.
Skin cells called corneocytes are the building blocks of these walls. The cement that binds them is composed of a mixture of sebum, fat and water. It’s the hydrolipidic film! Synonymous with the skin barrier, this hydrolipidic film is above our skin and is the first protection against the outside world.
How does the skin barrier work?
It couldn't be simpler: the skin barrier keeps "good things" inside the house, and prevents "bad things" from entering the house.
The good stuff is hydration and nutrients to the skin. Your skin needs to keep them inside the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss and keep your cells healthy. The hydrolipidic film is enriched with hydrophobic fats such as ceramides to prevent water evaporation. Indeed, without the skin barrier, the water in your skin and your body evaporates, which can lead to dryness, dull complexion, feeling of discomfort, etc. Nutrients such as vitamins E, B5 for example , or the electrolytes would escape with the water. A good skin barrier is therefore vital!
Bad things are pollution, irritants or pathogens. They are constantly present in the atmosphere and their concentration increases if air quality is poor. The skin interacts with millions of polluting particles and bacteria every day: the objective is that they must not cross the skin barrier. And even without crossing it, these particles are responsible for oxidative stress .
How do I know if my skin barrier is damaged?
The classic signs of a damaged skin barrier are:
- Redness or a purplish tint for brown or black skin colors,
- Localized dry areas,
- Itches,
- Hypersensitivity compared to usual,
- Irregular skin texture,
- Cyclic imperfections,
- Painful and inflamed blemishes due to infection,
- Loss of elasticity.
Having one of these signs does not necessarily mean that your skin barrier is damaged. But if several of these signs combine, it surely is.
How to repair a damaged skin barrier?
The simplest thing is to stop what can harm your skin:
- Do not overexfoliate with AHAs or BHAs and stop them for at least a good week,
- Stop taking retinoids for at least a good week,
- Do not integrate new products into your routine before having identified what caused a disruption of your skin barrier,
- Clean your skin daily with a cleanser that is too aggressive and whose PH is not between 5.0 and 6.0.
What to do :
- Use products rich in ceramides and biomimetic oils such as squalene or jojoba oil,
- Introduce soothing ingredients like vitamin B5 or niacinamide ,
- Simplify your routine: cleanser, lipid-rich cream and sun protection,
- Note the moments when you have the feeling that your skin barrier is weakened in order to identify what can trigger it: perhaps you cannot tolerate a particular active ingredient or you have irritated your skin too much with unsuitable products.
The basic routine to follow: double cleansing with our cleansing oil and our cleansing jelly , both enriched with calendula, a soothing ingredient for the skin. Our moisturizing cream, fluid or rich depending on your skin type, concentrated in vitamin B5 to soothe the skin and hydrate it. And our night oil to seal in hydration and activate the skin's restorative functions while you sleep.
