Les actifs skincare : que ne faut-il pas mixer ?

Skincare active ingredients: what should not be mixed?

Building the perfect beauty routine can be a real obstacle course. When we have several skin problems, it can be tempting to “pile” products on our skin. And if it is essential to meet all the needs of our skin, we must be careful with which active ingredients we can or cannot mix . Certain active ingredients will cause irritation while others gain or lose effectiveness. Here is a little practical guide to building a skincare routine like a pro!

What happens when you apply multiple products?

An effective product is a product that contains one or more active ingredients. Each of its active ingredients is formulated at a certain pH, with other ingredients to help their penetration into the skin or increase their effects tenfold. Vitamin E, when used as an antioxidant and active ingredient, for example needs vitamin C in the formula to have interesting effects.

Each cosmetic formula is complex. Thus, the main risk when applying different products one after the other is to cause irritation or to make the active ingredients less effective . We can even increase the sensitivity of the skin in the long term. Finally, partly for pH reasons, we can even cancel the effect of two products.

For example, vitamin C is rather acidic and retinols are rather basic. This is why their usual forms (certain vitamin C derivatives are more stable, others less acidic, etc.) are generally not formulated in a single product. This is also why applying a product containing vitamin C then another based on retinols will reduce the effectiveness of both cosmetics.

Combinations to avoid

Retinol + Vitamin C:

For the reasons mentioned above, we strongly advise against using both in the same routine (i.e. at the same time). Choose vitamin C in the morning for its antioxidant protection, and retinol in the evening. From our side anyway, we will always advise you to use bakuchiol, the plant-based alternative to retinol .

Retinol + AHA / BHA:

These two active ingredients are very powerful: they both refine the surface layer of the skin. The risk of irritation is therefore increased tenfold.

Two exfoliants at the same time (with AHA / BHA or a scrub):

You risk over-exfoliating your skin, and that's the worst thing you could do: damage the skin barrier. Once damaged, the skin can present micro lesions (invisible to the naked eye) which sensitize it and which will create other problems for you. The skin will heal less quickly, will be less uniform, sometimes pimples will appear... The combo not to do!

Combinations to look for

Niacinamide + Bakuchiol or AHA: the combo for skin with imperfections or those looking for a smoother and more uniform skin texture

Niacinamide or vitamin B3 is a fairly incredible active ingredient due to its 360-degree action. It provides antioxidant protection , brightens the complexion and has soothing properties. Using a niacinamide product therefore helps reduce potential irritation from AHAs or retinols (again, this is why we recommend bakuchiol).

This is why our imperfections serum brings together lactic acid, an AHA, niacinamide and bakuchiol. Together, they provide a complete skin texture renewal action.

Vitamin B5 + Bakuchiol or AHA or Vitamin C: the combo to find more comfortable skin and boost the radiance of the complexion

Vitamin B5 , in addition to being known for its moisturizing and soothing properties, has been proven to help the healing of the skin. Coupled with bakuchiol, AHAs or vitamin C, it therefore helps reduce potential irritation. Bakuchiol, AHAs and vitamin C are radiance boosters. Choose bakuchiol if you are also looking for anti-aging or anti-imperfections action. If you tend to mark easily and you notice a lack of uniformity in your complexion, choose AHAs instead - either in a lotion for example, or in a mask . And finally, if you are looking for an anti-oxidant and anti-aging action, vitamin C will be your ally.

Our moisturizing cream, rich or fluid depending on your skin, is enriched with vitamin B5 to support the skin barrier and allow you to choose the complementary active ingredient of your choice without risking causing irritation.

Hyaluronic acid + Bakuchiol or AHA or Vitamin C: the combo for skin looking for a glow effect and plumped features

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that retains water and helps hydrate both the superficial and deeper layers of your skin. It helps improve the effects of most active ingredients including AHAs , bakuchiol or vitamin C.

This is why we created the hydrating booster , ultra concentrated in hyaluronic acid so that you can keep your skin hydrated all day long.



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Des questions ?

Parce que chaque actif a un pH, une fonction et une intensité différente. Mal associés, certains ingrédients peuvent annuler leurs effets, irriter la peau ou provoquer des réactions. Exemple : vitamine C et acides exfoliants peuvent fragiliser la barrière cutanée s’ils sont superposés. Connaître les bonnes combinaisons, c’est éviter le surdosage et préserver l’équilibre de la peau.

Pas en même temps. Le rétinol et la vitamine C sont deux puissants antioxydants, mais leurs modes d’action diffèrent. Le matin, on privilégie la vitamine C pour protéger la peau des radicaux libres. Le soir, le rétinol stimule le renouvellement cellulaire. Les alterner dans la routine quotidienne permet de bénéficier de leurs bienfaits sans agresser l’épiderme.

À manier avec précaution. La niacinamide est un actif apaisant, parfait pour renforcer la barrière cutanée. Les AHA ou BHA, eux, exfolient et stimulent le renouvellement cellulaire. Utilisés ensemble, ils peuvent créer une sensation d’échauffement ou de rougeur chez les peaux sensibles. L’idéal : les espacer dans la routine, ou choisir des formules douces et bien dosées.

La règle d’or : alterner les jours ou les moments d’application. Par exemple, exfolier 2 à 3 fois par semaine seulement, et réserver les actifs plus puissants comme le rétinol pour le soir. Le layering (superposition) doit respecter un ordre précis : sérum, crème, puis huile. Et surtout, toujours écouter sa peau : tiraillements, rougeurs, picotements sont des signaux d’alerte.

Oui, certains actifs sont particulièrement polyvalents et tolérés. C’est le cas de la niacinamide, de l’acide hyaluronique ou encore du panthénol. On peut par exemple appliquer un sérum à l’acide hyaluronique pour hydrater, suivi d’une crème enrichie en niacinamide pour apaiser et renforcer la peau. Ces synergies permettent une routine efficace et sans risque d’irritation.

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